Animal Care Information - Raccoon

We are always available to answer any questions you may have on how to appropriately care for an animal that you have adopted from us.

Please never hesitate to text or email us if you need to.

Here on our website we will provide a variety of information that will help answer some common questions we receive from our adopters. Please note that this will not be a fully encompassing set of guidelines and is meant as a starting point. You should always do your own research prior to adopting a new pet.

***In case of EMERGENCY please DO NOT contact us, and call your ER vet immediately***

***Animal Poison Control: 888-426-4435***

***Just Wright Exotics LLC and its operators are not veterinarians nor claim to be. The information provided on this website is based off of years of experience, guidance from licensed veterinarians that have worked with JWE, and general common knowledge within the exotics community. Please consider all information to be the opinions and recommendations of JWE while understanding that this information is not a substitution for a veterinarian consult. Thank you.***

Before you get your baby

Getting a new baby raccoon can be quite the intimidating process. We hope that the information and supplies list provided will get you off to a good start.

Supplies Needed:

  • Milk Replacer, Fox Valley Day One 40/25 - This product is available on Amazon sometimes. However, if you order directly from Fox Valley it will be cheaper and more readily available. They usually ship next business day and it'll arrive in a couple days. PLEASE order well in advance. We recommend you purchase at least the 3.5 lbs size.

  • Baby bottle with medium flow nipple - The slow flow (0+) will clog way too easily, and the fast flow is typically too fast for younger babies and will lead to aspiration. As the baby grows and is drinking a lot more, you may consider switching to fast flow. We typically use medium flow until weaning.

  • Fleece blankets - You will want a lot. Fleece is recommended as it will not fray and will reduce the risk of your baby getting wrapped up in threads. If holes develop, stop using that blanket or cut that section off. You don't want your baby getting its head or leg stuck.

  • Puppy pads - You can use this under the fleece blankets or on one side of the enclosure while small. They will typically sleep in the blankets and move over and potty on the pads. This will help keep things clean and tidy.

  • Cat nail clippers - Baby nails grow fast and are very sharp. You will want to keep them clipped weekly on average if you want to avoid your hands and arms being shredded during bottle feedings. You will just take the sharp tip off. Be careful not to cut too short and get the nail quick which will be painful to the baby and will make it bleed. If you do accidentally cut too short, take note of the error, put pressure on the nail with some paper towel and it will stop soon enough. Then just cut off less on the other other nails. Amazon has and option to order but you can also find these at Dollar Tree as well.

  • Baby nest/enclosure - What is appropriate will greatly depend on the age of your baby when you get it. Younger babies are significantly less mobile and don't require much space but will still be able to climb out of an open space. Older babies will need more space but floor space is more important than climbing space and additional levels. As your baby gets older, is mobile, climbing, etc, then you can move into an adult enclosure. You will want to ensure your baby cannot escape, get stuck in any part of the enclosure, and it should be easy to clean. If you are unsure what to use, or if what you plan to use will be ok, just ask.

  • Kitchen Scale - We recommend you have one of these so that you can accurately keep track of your baby’s weight. This is important for tracking growth and for medication dosing. Any option you find should work just fine, you don’t have to use the linked option.

  • Thermometer - You will need a way to measure the temperature of the baby’s bottle. A human or meat thermometer will work for this.

  • Medications - Your baby will need a variety of meds now and as it gets older. Here is what we recommend and when to use each. If you need help with medication dosing, just ask vs just guessing or hoping you figured it out right if you’re unsure.

    • Dewormer - Safe-Guard, Fenbendazole - This will be given at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks, and 8 weeks old. Dosing regimen will be 0.2 mL per pound which is the same as 0.01 mL per ounce. Use a 1 mL oral syringe for this. You can probably get one at your local pharmacy counter just by asking. NOTE: Does not protect against fleas, ticks, or tapeworms

    • Dewormer/Flea/Heart Worm Prevention - Assurity Plus (generic Advantage Multi) - You will want to order the small dog size. This is a once monthly medication and should be started at 9-10 weeks old. As your raccoon grows into an adult, get the correct dog weight version of the med. NOTE: Does not protect against ticks or tapeworms.

  • Vaccinations - Raccoons do not have species specific vaccinations that are available to purchase. They are able to contract viruses from both dogs and cats so they need to be vaccinated for both. Here is the regimen that we recommend with links to order them if you choose to administer these yourself. If you are uncomfortable giving your the vaccinations, please let your vet know that the raccoon will need covered, at minimum, for feline distemper, canine distemper, and parvovirus.

    • Focus Cat Vax 3 - You will need to order 3 doses.

    • Canine Spectra 5 - You will need to order 3 doses.

    • The above 2 vaccinations should be given at the same time, in opposite sides of the body (each shoulder area, or neck and thigh) at age 10 weeks, 13 weeks, and 16 weeks.

    • Rabies - Most vets will recommend you rabies vaccinate. If you and your vet decide to vaccinate for rabies, this will be one that your vet will provide.


After you get your baby

The fun begins!

Bottle Feeding:

Most of our adopters will get their raccoon when bottle feeding is still required. It is crucial that your baby receives proper nutrition and care at this age. If you are not experienced with bottle feeding, please let us know and we will review this with you. Honestly raccoons are one of the easiest species to bottle feed but that is not to say there are no risks or that every raccoon or every feeding will be a smooth process.

  • Making the bottle - Fox Valley has directions on their packaging, it is 1 part milk powder to 2 parts water. We reccomend using warm water slightly above feeding temp to mix your bottle as this will help the powder to dissolve better. Undissolved milk can clog the nipple. If you have left over milk, it is good for 24hrs once mixed. However, reheating may be difficult and/or dangerous. Most people will use the microwave but you MUST be careful about mixing between heating and shaking well and then checking the temperature. It is very easy to make it too hot and if you do not mix well enough, you risk hot spots when feeding.

  • Correct temperature - You will want to target 100F for the milk at time of feeding. If it is too hot, you risk burning the baby’s mouth and esophagus. If it is too cold, the baby likely will not want to eat.

  • Feeding Schedule - The linked schedule is from OrphanedWildlifeCare.com and is a good reference. Does not matter that your new baby is not a wild raccoon.

    • You will want to target feeding around 5-7% of total body weight per feeding.

    • When younger, more feedings per day are needed, around 5 times per day. As the raccoon gets older you will decrease this to 4, then to 3, times per day.

    • Max amount of milk per feeding should be around 1/3 - 1/2 of a bottle (3-4 ounces). Some babies will try and eat and eat and eat, you will need to stop them if this is the case. Most babies will eat until they have a nice round belly, are full, then will stop.

Weaning onto solids:

  • 6 weeks old is when you can start introducing some soft solids and begin the weaning process. Another indicator is when your baby is eating about a half bottle and still acting very hungry.

  • We recommend starting with milk soaked puppy kibble. Any quality brand of kibble will suffice.

  • You can also introduce finely chopped fruits and vegetables or use baby foods to try new flavors.

  • As your baby starts eating more solids, you can reduce the amount and number of times you are offering the bottle.

  • Note: Raccoons can be picky eaters and they definitely have a sweet tooth. We recommend introducing as many different foods/flavors as possible while young to try and avoid this. If your baby is being picky and only wanting to eat one particular type of food, best thing to do is STOP offering that food and try some new options. The favorite food can still be used in the future but you want the baby to know that many foods are good, not just one.


Housing your raccoon

There are a number of viable options for how to house your raccoon going forward once they are able to climb, run, and be on their own unattended. This will greatly depend on your home, available space indoors and outdoors, and what works best for you and your raccoon. Here are some options that might work for you. Feel free to reach out to us if you want to discuss your plans to ensure the safety of your raccoon.

Indoor Options:

  • Free Range - you will need to raccoon proof your home but this option is what a lot of people choose to do.

  • Designated Room - Probably the most common option for our adopters in the past. This is a room that has been set up specifically for the raccoon so that it is safe and fun. These adopters will typically also let their raccoon free range if they are home, but the raccoon has its own room when needed that it can be enclosed into without access to the rest of the house.

  • Indoor Enclosure - Similar to the designated room but with a smaller enclosure within a room. Either a custom built or manufacture built option works well for this. The size of the enclosure will need to be sufficient for the raccoon to live comfortably when inside it with plenty of space for food, water, toys, play, lots of levels/climbing options, and a bed area. The size may also depend on how often the raccoon is in the enclosure. Example: If only at night to sleep, but free range every day, smaller is fine. If inside while you are at work for 8 hours a day then free range, you definitely want something larger. Or if the raccoon will be in the enclosure most of the time but out for a few hours every night, you want the largest you can possibly accommodate. The bigger the better in all situations of course.

  • Outdoor Living - Some adopters choose to have an outdoor enclosure. This is perfectly acceptable, it is a raccoon after all. The biggest thing with this options is ensuring it is both predator proof and escape proof. The largest enclosure you can have is the size you should have. Minimum size we would reccomend would be 5ft x 10ft with 8ft x 8ft or 10ft x 10ft being preferred.

One pre-built option that can work for both indoor or outdoor housing with some modifications is a chicken pen with fence panels and an enclosed roof. We have a couple of these ourselves. TSC and Rural King both have options for this type of enclosure.